How to Tell if a Photo Has Been Doctored. Nearly every photo online has been edited in some way, whether through cropping, filtering, compressing, color correcting, or other generally innocuous touch ups. But a lot of people attempt to pass off doctored images as true ones, leading to hoaxes, crackpot theories, and more than one trip to Snopes for some fact checking. You can do the world a service by helping those around you identify real photos against fake ones. Introduction. This article is intended to collect together technical info and practical handson data about the venerable Dana 60 front axle. Nearly every photo online has been edited in some way, whether through cropping, filtering, compressing, colorcorrecting, or other generally innocuous touchups. But. Diamondback moths may be a mere halfinch in length, but their voracious appetite for Brussels sprouts, kale and cauliflower make them a major pain for farmers. This. viprbomber I hate to disappoint you, but Toyota trucks have been HUBCENTRIC since at least 1996. If you look at your wheel hub, you will see a ring that is exactly. Your 1 source for alloy wheel hub centric rings. All sizes 24,90 only ca. USD set, 4 pieces. FREE SHIPPINGHeres how Look for Poor Editing First. Glaring mistakes should be the first way you identify a doctored photo. If you think somethings been modified, a helpful tip is to look around the area you believe is edited. Warping around a subject is a pretty clear indication of photo manipulation. Check out hands, feet, and faces, common areas where you may find the lingering presence of poorly erased objects like jewelry, blemishes, or debris. Low resolution images might make mistakes harder to discover, so consider blurry camera photos and video footage with a grain of salt. Lighting is Key. If two people standing next to each other are lit in a different manner, one of them might have been inserted after the fact. The same goes for objects added to photos. If the light falling on the object doesnt correlate with the rest of the highlights in the photo, its probably been edited. Check Out Repeating Pixels. You might have a photo of a bright blue sky, but every blue pixel is a tiny bit different, and cant just be replaced by a blue paintbrush. Some tools, like the brush or clone tool in Photoshop, depend on using identical pixels to reproduce whatever youre cloning or coloring. Weve seen a few great online tools for learning how to use the manual settings on a camera before, Read more Read. In life, nothing is ever colored perfectly, and spots of suspiciously similar pixels in a photo might be evidence of a doctored photo, according to former Adobe executive Kevin Connor. Poor cloning also leaves behind duplicate artifacts, like clouds, or even fingers in the worst offenders. Obvious giveaways, to be sure. EXIF Data is Your Friend. After you pore over a photo for edits, you still might not be convinced. Thats when you should take a look at the photographs EXIF data, metadata embedded in a photograph when its taken. Cameras store metadata in photos associated with the make and model of camera, settings used to make the photo including ISO, focus, and shutter speed among other pieces of information. Photo editing tools and photo copying may remove bits of metadata, or add metadata indicating the photo has been modified. Installing A Newel Post Diy Network. A lack of metadata often means it was removed, making it harder to identify the source of the image and verify its validity. If someone is trying to pass off a disingenuous photograph as true and its lacking metadata, be wary of its source. Sites like Exifdata and Metapicz are web based options for checking the EXIF data of your photos. Suspect metadata you should look for often includes the date the image was created, which could be the day the modified photo was created rather than the day it was taken. Correct WheelTire Balancing LUG CENTRIC. I again state that Toyota truck hubswheels have been HUBCENTRIC since at least 1. Figure 2 on attached pdf that is dated September 1. Toyota refers to their HUBCENTRIC wheels http www. Toyota. Land. Cruisertsu. Here is also an excerpt from a Hubcentriclugcentric discussion that was held over on the Toyota. Nation forum where a lot of false information on Tacoma hubcentriclugcentric was put to bed OK, here goes. The OEM wheels like virtually every OEM wheel since the late 9. There is no need to arguedusagree on the point. For any that are inclined to disagree, it is quite easy to remove a wheel and see for yourself. The flange on the Taco protrudes about 51. OD of this fits neatly inside the bore of the OEM wheel. If you heft a wheel up to its mounting position prior to installng any lug nuts, you can notice the wheel will turn on this center hub allowing you to line up the lug nuts. The hub centric design is a sustantial strength benefit under shear forces. In shear, these forces are transmitted through the center, presumably strongest part of the wheel and the lugs do not have to absorb these forces alone. Perhaps some confusion comes about because of the lug nut style of the Taco. The OEM nuts have a shank and washer. This is different than many cars that use a lug nut with a conical seat to secure the wheel to the vehicle. OK, so why are Taco wheels sometimes hard to balance Lets look at balancers first. The most common method of balancing is to throw the wheel up on a balancer and use a cone to center the wheel. The cone goe through the center bore of the wheel. Hopefully everyone realizes the difference between a cone and a cylinder. With a cone, thee is only a circular line of contact bewtween the cone nd the wheel hub. In contrast to the wheel as it sits on the cylindrical shaped flange where there is a theoretical contact area of about 51. Back to the balancer. Depending on the shape of the balancing cone being used and the diameter and edge shape of the wheel centerbore, the cones contact edge may or MAY NOT be good. In some cases, it may not even come into contact with a machined edge of the wheel bore. In short, some wheel designs when combined with certain shaped balancing cones may be incompatie and you may not get a good balance. This can be easily demonstrated by removing and re installing a just balanced wheel to the balancing machine. If the cones do not fit properly to the wheel, the results will not be repeatable. Car manufacturers are keenly aware of this issue. Many manufactures Lexus was amoung the first, require their dealership to use a Haweka style lug centric balancing plate. These plates use lug fingers and secure the wheel to the balancer using the concentricity of the lugs. Done properly, the tirerim should be rotated while the balancers jam nut is being tightened. Now lets look at issues at the car itself. Purely from a balancing perspective and explicitly ignoring other design benefits, the best combination for balancing consistency is in order1. A hub centric wheel with conical seat lug nuts. Both are simultanously centering the wheel on the car. A hub centril wheel with the shank style lug nuts. This is the Taco OEM set up for aluminum wheels. The hub centricity will center the wheel and the shank style lugs arent quite as effective as the conical seat nuts for centering. Non hub centric wheels with conical styly lugs. The lugs themselves must both secure and center the wheel. Finally, the least desireable config is the non hub centric wheel with the shank style lug nuts. In this config the shank style lug nuts have to both secure and center the wheel. Being frustrated by too many bad balancing jobs, I broke down and bought my own balancer and Haweka adapter system. Consequently, I have had a lot of time to experiment. I also found that I have a lot more friends than I thought I had Quote The facts I know for sure are that manufactures do make HUB centric and LUG centric Rims. Maybe so but I have not seen an OEM rim that wasnt hub centic in the last 1. If you know of one, Id sure like to hear what it is. You can consider that a challenge if you wish. I dont mind losing and learning something in the process. Quote If like what you were concluding my Lug centric is actually Hub centricI hope that you, like some others in this thread, are not confusing the definition. ALL rims, regardless of bolt pattern, number of lugs, etc. A hub centric rim is one that has a center bore that precisely fits over a flange on the vehicle. Like I said, I have not seen a rim steel or aluminum in the last 1. The lower cost, most common, aftermarket manufacturers typically do not make hub centric wheels. By manufacturing a hub centric wheel, the wheel becomes specialized to one particular application or a small set of applications that share the same bore diameter. Having dealt with many,many wheeltire modifications in both street and track applications, I personally would never purchase wheels that were not hub centric. This is the primary reason I chose the TRDBBS wheel for the Taco. Quote I also know that you can balance a well made Lug centric rim with the cone system. The Haweka system is NOT needed. Mine balanced out fine. Yes, it is very possible to balance a rim with the cone system. With the right tapered cone in contack with nice machined surface of th center bore, then the balancers work as they were designed. Please note, however, that there are rim and cone combinations that just wont alow a consistent balance. A Haweka type of lug centric balancing system will mitigate these incompatibilities. To summarize a rim is either hub centric or it is not. Period. Some define a wheel that is not hub centric as being lug centric. This is a common practice and perhaps de facto definition. Literally, however, all rims are lug centric.